If you have a sunroom in your home, or have recently added one, you may have discovered it is not as comfortable year ‘round as you expected.

There a few options you can consider to make your space more enjoyable 365 days a year:

  • Temporary solutions such as space heaters and free-standing cooling units.
  • Expanding the existing ductwork in the home to the sunroom. You may have to increase your existing system (such as from a 2-ton unit to a 2 ½-ton).
  • Adding a ductless heating and cooling system (also know as a mini split).

To give you all of your options, we would need to see the space and existing system, but we find that more often than not, ductless heating and cooling systems are the best solution for rooms that always seem to be too hot or too cold. These compact systems come in a variety of styles and sizes that provide personalized comfort control.

Your sunroom is likely also your sanctuary, and you can rest assured that a ductless system operates efficiently and quietly.

Some of the benefits of choosing a mini split system include:

  • Flexibility: just add the ductless system where you need it (such as your sunroom)
  • Efficiency: mini split systems have high Seasonal Energy Efficiency Ratios (“SEER”)
  • Individual temperature control for each space
  • No need to add costly ducts where none exist
  • Less chance of leakage
  • Better air quality, due to the top-notch air filtration systems that are included
  • Low maintenance. There is no annual check-up needed on a ductless air conditioner. You will want to have it cleaned when it gets dirty and change your filters regularly, but that’s it as far as maintenance requirements.

How Mini Split (Ductless) Systems Work

In a ductless air conditioner, there are two main components: an outdoor compressor or condenser and an indoor air handling unit, typically connected by a conduit that includes a drain line, refrigerant tubing, suction tubing, and a condensate drain.

The compressor or condenser is installed outside the home or structure and the conduit is run from the outdoor unit to individual rooms where a controlled temperature is desired. Wall-mounted interior units are then placed in the spaces you want to cool or warm (such as your sunroom), which is accomplished by refrigerant flowing between the outdoor and indoor units through copper tubing in the conduit.

Mini split systems can control anywhere from one to nine zones. So, if you plan to add a ductless system to your sunroom, you may want to consider if any other rooms in your home require additional heating and/or cooling. We have put air handlers in a variety of spaces: basements, bedrooms, additions, garages, home offices, etc.

You may be worried that your sunroom is all windows and there is nowhere to put the mini split. Air handlers come in a variety of mounting options:

  • Wall mount (this is the preferred method)
  • Floor mount
  • Ceiling mount
  • Multi-positional

Interested in a Mini Split Installation for Your Sunroom and/or Another Room?

Contact Mode at admin@modecomfort.com or 804-481-6633 to schedule a free in-home estimate. The technician will take into account:

  • How many rooms you want to heat or cool
  • The square footage of each room
  • The ceiling height of each room
  • How many windows are in each room
  • The size and type of the windows
  • Sun exposure of the home or space
  • Type of insulation
  • Type of roof
  • Type of foundation (crawl space, slab, etc.)
  • Doorways and openings to the rooms

This information will help him work up a quote for your ductless system installation and get you on the right track to make your sunroom an all-season room.

 

Have you joined Mode’s Fan Club yet? The Fan Club is our VIP program that comes with several benefits. Most notably, membership includes TWO preventative maintenance checks per year.
For those of you who like math:
Let’s say you have one HVAC unit in your home. To join the Fan Club would cost $19.95 per month (or $239.40 annually). This amount includes two preventative maintenance visits per year.
Preventative maintenance visits cost $156 each ($69 service call fee plus $87 inspection fee). Two per year would total $312. So, if you are person who likes your spring and fall system checks, the Mode Fan Club more than pays for itself with just this benefit alone.
Since math is fun, let’s see what happens if you have two systems in your home. The Fan Club for two systems is $29.90 per month (or $358.80 annually). Preventative maintenance visits for two systems cost $243 each ($69 service call fee plus $87 inspection fee per unit). Two maintenance visits per year would be $486. We don’t completely get the “new math” being taught today, but we’re pretty sure that $486 is still more than $358.80.
In addition to saving on your preventative maintenance visits, you will receive other perks and discounts. Please visit our Fan Club page to learn more and sign up. Even if you don’t like math, you will like the cool Fan Club membership card that we will send you after you join.

Many of our service calls are very simple: a blown capacitor. This is good for our customers because capacitors are comparatively inexpensive and quick to replace.

The part that is bad for homeowners is the simple fact that capacitors are a little bit like light bulbs. It might last 3 days. It might last 3 months. It might last 3 years. And there is absolutely no way to tell.

What Does a Capacitor Do?

Start capacitors give a jolt to the system to get the compressor and fan motor going. Run capacitors provide the oomph to keep the system running. They might be little, but without them, your unit is essentially dead.

Why Do So Many Capacitors Fail?

Capacitors blow for several reasons:

  • They become overheated by the sun (rooftop units are particularly susceptible to this)
  • They become overheated by the unit running too long and hard (this happens a lot during the summer months)
  • Power surges (including slight fluctuations in the electrical grid)
  • Lightning strikes
  • They wear out due to age and use

If you think your capacitor may be failing, it is imperative it is caught and replaced early. Running your unit with a failing capacitor can cause major (and expensive) damage. A dead capacitor can take out a motor or compressor with it, and possibly even cause the unit to fail entirely.

But How Do I Know if My Capacitor is Failing?

You probably won’t know, but we will! Preventative maintenance is the key to getting ahead of potential issues. Mode’s Fan Club is only $19.95 per month (for one unit) and that includes two preventative maintenance visits per year. One inspection can cost $150-$200…you can do the math. During these check-ups, we will inspect all aspects of your comfort system, including your capacitors.

There are a few signs of possible capacitor failure that homeowners can look for in between check-ups to (although there can certainly be other causes to the below):

  • The compressor struggles to start and then shuts off quickly
  • The unit starts and stops over and over
  • The AC is not blowing cold air
  • A humming noise
  • A clicking noise
  • Your system is performing differently than it previously had been

If a Capacitor is Such a Simple Part, Can I Replace it Myself?

We do not suggest that homeowners ever attempt to replace a capacitor themselves. The capacitor stores an electrical charge and contains hazardous oil. This is one piece of equipment best left to the HVAC professionals.

As always, if you have any questions about any part of your HVAC system, do not hesitate to contact Mode Comfort & Air Quality at 804-481-6633 or admin@modecomfort.com.

Every homeowner knows that they are “supposed” to change their air filters every month. It seems like such a simple thing to do, but it is also a very easy thing to forget to do.

If air filters are not changed regularly, your system will not be working to capacity, and with this crazy central Virginia weather, we all need our ACs to work at 100%.

 

What Do Air Filters Do?

Well, for starters, they filter the air…but you probably suspected that.

Additional benefits include:

  • filtering out allergens, such as pollen, mold, pet dander, and dust
  • protecting your home from damage from larger objects that may come loose within your system
  • improved indoor air quality
  • lowering fire risk
  • improved efficiency of your HVAC system
  • lower energy bills
  • less wear and tear on your HVAC system
  • better airflow in your home, with more even cooling throughout the rooms

 

What Happens if You Don’t Change Your Air Filters Regularly?

  • extra strain on the fan motor (air filters are WAY cheaper than a new fan motor…I promise)
  • less efficient airflow
  • increased risk of your system overheating or freezing up
  • higher energy bills
  • increased risk of growing mold or bacteria
  • possible dirty ducts

For the sake of your health (and/or wallet), you want to avoid any of the above.

 

Do I Really Have to Change My Air Filters Every Month?

This simple answer is: Yes. At Mode Comfort & Air Quality, we suggest monthly filter changes especially for those with pets or those living in high pollen areas (that’s all of us here in central Virginia). Filters are inexpensive and easy to change. In fact, we discourage the use of expensive “high-end” filters, except in certain circumstances.

I can’t tell you how many times we have been dispatched to a service call, only to discover the air filter had not been changed for six months. The customer could have avoided the service call by simply changing the air filter regularly. We love our customers, and we really don’t want to charge you $69 to tell you your filters are dirty.

If you have any questions about how often you should change your filters, or what type of filters you should use, please contact Mode at 804-481-6633 or admin@modecomfort.com for expert guidance. We are always happy to help.

In the winter, we often hear from customers who are experiencing a lack of humidity in the home. This can cause dry, cracked skin on humans and pets, in addition to warping, cracking, and other damage to household furnishings and fixtures. In these situations, we install a humidifier to balance the moisture in the home.

On the opposite end of things, in the summer, excess moisture in the home can lead to mold, allergens, musty odors, mildew, and warping furniture and floors…none of which we want in our living spaces. To combat these evils, we commonly install a whole house dehumidifier.

Benefits of a Whole House Dehumidifier

  • Less sweat and clamminess on your skin (you will feel cooler).
  • Minimized allergy and asthma triggers, such as mold and dust mites (both thrive in high humidity environments).
  • Eradication of comfortable insect breeding grounds.
  • Elimination of musty odors.
  • Protection for your home, furnishings, and heirlooms from warping and permanent moisture damage.
  • Improved energy efficiency. By removing the excess humidity from your indoor air, you will feel cooler at a higher temperature, enabling you to set your thermostat a few degrees higher.

We often have customers with concerns about the maintenance commitment that comes with a whole house dehumidifier. The commercial-grade Aprilaire products we install have a dedicated drain, eliminating the need to empty or change water trays.

Can’t I Just Crank Up the AC?

If your home is humid, it may seem like the answer is to lower the temperature setting on your thermostat. This may make sense on the surface because air that has too much humidity in it makes you feel warmer. I can assure you that over-cooling is not the answer; you will use more energy and still not be comfortable. If your air conditioner just can’t handle the levels of humidity you are experiencing in your home, adding a dehumidifier will boost your air conditioner’s efficiency and effectiveness.

It is as simple as it sounds: the only effective means of removing humidity is with a dehumidifier.

You may think of Mode as a heating and cooling company, but the reason our name is Mode Comfort & Air Quality is because, of course, we do heating and air conditioning, but we also specialize in other services to make the air in your home healthier and more comfortable. Contact Mode at 804-720-9185 or admin@modecomfort.com today to find out if a whole house dehumidifier may be what you need for both your comfort and the air quality in your home.

 

All of them? Yes, all of them. Even the one in the bathroom that is always freezing cold? Okay, you can close that one.

Depending on many factors, the cost of heating and cooling your home can be responsible for as much as half of your electric bill. At Mode Comfort & Air Quality, we are often asked by homeowners what they can do to lower their energy costs and increase the efficiency and lifespan of their comfort systems. The first response to this question is another question:

Are all of your vents open?

You likely have a return register that is non-adjustable (just a grille), but your supply registers (through which air gets pushed through the house) will have a means to adjust them. It seems perfectly logical that if a grille is adjustable (like window blinds), then you should be free to adjust it, and many people do just that.

Wait, are you saying I shouldn’t touch the lever on the vent cover once it is opened?

Closing even a few vents can cause problems for your system. Issues can be minor, such as low air flow or condensation, or major, such as a dead compressor or a cracked heat exchanger.

Many homeowners tell us that they thought that by closing a vent or two in an unused room they were asking the unit to “work less.” The marvelous world of HVAC does not work this way. By closing vents, you are actually restricting the duct system by increasing the pressure in the air ducts, which could cause leaks. Believe me, no one wants leaky ducts. Energy Star reports that “In a typical house, however, about 20 to 30 percent of the air that moves through the duct system is lost due to leaks, holes, and poorly connected ducts. The result is higher utility bills and difficulty keeping the house comfortable, no matter how the thermostat is set.”

Here is the technical part, in case you like numbers.

Air conditioners have to move a certain amount of air all the time. For instance, a 3-ton air conditioner is designed to move 400 cubic feet of air per minute (“CFM”). This flow can be raised or lowered 25 CFM without much impact on the unit (such as closing the vent in the bathroom that is always freezing…but just that one). A typical residential 6-inch metal vent moves 100 CFM. If you have a 3-ton AC and close off four vents, you just turned your 3-ton unit into a 2-ton unit. Thus, losing a third of the effectiveness (having a really dirty air filter can do the same thing).

Worst case scenario

Closing vents also causes the blower to slow down by restricting where the air can go. This can cause the evaporator coil to freeze, which will eventually destroy the compressor in the outdoor unit. Low airflow may also cause the heat exchanger to overheat, which could lead to a crack that potentially releases carbon monoxide into your house.

Final words

We suggest that you open your vents (but you probably figured that out by now), open your interior doors, change your air filters regularly, and let your HVAC unit work as it was intended. We go on many service calls that could have been avoided. At Mode, we are always happy to answer your questions and help you avoid costly repairs to your system.

I am going to address a subject that is somewhat polarizing among realtors and tradesmen alike:  home inspections. This blog, like all of my blogs, are my opinions only and based on my 25 years of HVAC experience.

 

A thorough home inspection can save you money big time when purchasing a home. A good home inspector can spot costly hidden issues and make suggestions on how to handle them; in extreme situations they can save you from buying a potential money pit. A skilled home inspector can make your next home purchase proceed like clockwork or even save you from potential financial ruin. We work with several fantastic home inspectors that are truly a credit to their profession. Like all professions, there are good and bad actors. As a buyer, you want the best of the best. Your real estate agent will have suggestions and you should consider them, however, do not rely solely on them. Do your own research, check reviews, check their social media pages and websites, and ask for references. Your home is likely one of the biggest purchases you will ever make; a little homework and a small upfront fee can save you thousands of dollars and years of misery down the road.

 

Home inspectors are one of the least regulated occupations out there. As little as five years ago, anyone could call themselves a home inspector and start working without any experience or training. Over time, this created a strained relationship between tradesmen and inspection professionals, stemming from the influx of inexperienced and uninformed people posing as a home inspection authority without any significant pedigree. This, at the same time, has made life very difficult for legitimate, hardworking inspectors who take great pride in their work and do their best for their clients. As a result of public outcry the same regulatory body that governs tradesmen and other professions has stepped in and is slowly turning this formerly unrestricted profession into a highly scrutinized and regulated industry. This is good news for the true professional; bad news for the guy in the minivan that does inspections on the side for extra cash. This oversight also makes it easier for consumers to make informed choices when selecting a service.

 

When buying a home, you want the best of the best home inspectors. When selling, you want the absolute worst.  However, as a seller, you have no say in who the potential buyer selects. Even though the industry is more regulated, there are still some very bad inspectors out there. Below is some background and guidance on suggested steps to take when selling your home. Again, these tips are based are my own experiences over the last 25 years.

When selling your home, the initial impulse is to fix EVERYTHING to prepare for the sale. This is not the best course of action. You may have everything repaired that you think may be wrong, only to later have the home inspector ding you later for things that you never even knew about. My advice: before the sale, call the best home inspector you can find and have a through inspection done to find out the potential expenses you may be facing (keep this for yourself…if you share this information with your real estate agent, they will be required to disclose the inspection to potential buyers), and set aside the funds you will need to make the repairs. Then make the house as pretty as you can, put the house up for sale and wait to see what the buyer’s inspector finds. If the new owners hire a bad inspector you could potentially save thousands of dollars (not to mention time and headaches); if they hire a good one, you will know what you are in for. Bad home inspectors just want to find something-anything-so they write the report and get paid.  I have seen many instances where a subpar inspector makes a big stink about small, insignificant issues and misses the giant, expensive, hidden issues. One of our clients recently did this very thing. The initial inspector they hired found over $14,000 in needed repairs ($2,600 of that was HVAC related) and the homeowner did not make any of the repairs. Later, after the home was sold, the seller called us back to make repairs that the buyer’s home inspector said needed to be made. We made the HVAC repairs, which ended up totaling only $280 (as opposed to $2,600). Basically, wait and see what happens and you can save thousands.

On the opposite side of the coin, if you are the buyer, my best advice is to carefully select your inspector. After the inspection, if you still wish to pursue the sale then hire one member of each trade to also inspect the home: roofer, electrician, HVAC contractor, plumber and a general contractor. Even though a good home inspector can be extremely knowledgeable, it is impossible for them to be experts in every field. They provide an educated overall opinion on the home and make suggestions. The tradesmen are experts and can find things that the inspector cannot. Yes, this is time-consuming and can be expensive, but for a little extra effort you can be absolutely certain you are making the right choice when making one of the largest purchases of your life.

Your HVAC system just died. Now you have the daunting task of finding the right contractor to replace it. Unfortunately, this is when most people begin their crash course into the mind-numbingly boring world of HVAC.  Since there is nothing really that interesting, sexy or remotely entertaining about heating and air conditioning, most people only learn about it when they are forced to, like when your AC dies mid-July and it is 102 degrees with a heat index of 115 or 10 degrees and snowing. You are now tired, stressed, sweaty (or cold, depending on the season) and angry cause you had NO idea it would be this difficult to choose not only what equipment you need but who to select to perform the task. Here is a quick synopsis of what you need to know.

First, find out what you currently have.
Is it a gas furnace with AC?
Hybrid system?
Heat pump?
Straight AC?

Do you know where the equipment is?
Is the indoor unit in the attic?
Are the furnace and AC coil in the garage?
Is the heat pump blower under the house?

Next, what tonnage is it?
Is it a 4 ton?
3 ton?
2?
Or something else?

 

If it is a heating system, what fuel type and size is it?
Natural gas?
Oil?
Electric?
LP?
Or is it a boiler?
What is the BTU rating?

The contractor that told you about the equipment’s untimely demise can provide you with all of this info, so ask questions. If you know the answers already, CONGRATS! You are more informed than 95% of the population.

 

Next, do you know what you want to replace it with?
Do you want to upgrade to a higher efficiency system?
Change fuel types?

Move or add to the existing system?
Or do you just want something dependable and fast?

Now, the most important part of this process…which contractor to use for the project? Most premature equipment failures are due to improper installation at the beginning. Choosing the right contractor is actually more important than the equipment. The best equipment can become a nightmare with improper installation, and you can bet most of the time the equipment will get blamed for the issues, not the contractor. You can call 10 contractors and they will have 10 different ways of doing the same thing. You will have three that are right, three that are terrible ideas, and the others will be different shades of wrong. Same thing with pricing, you can get five prices: one high, one low and the others some grade of middle ground. What you need to know is WHY the prices are what they are. Sometimes one price can be really high, not because the contractor is shady or trying to gouge you, but because they did a more thorough evaluation and found some other things that needed to be corrected, or special circumstances that require a specific brand or type of equipment. And yes, sometimes the guy is just shady. Also, when comparing quotes, check the equipment types as well as other key factors such as: Is one a higher efficiency than the other? Is one an “off brand”? Is one contractor doing more to correct or alter the system than the others? Is one including more accessories? Did the contractor with the high quote take his time look at and measure the old unit or just snap a picture and write it up?

If a quote is lower than most, you must also find out why. Did they look at the job closely enough? Are they licensed and are they insured? (These two are VERY important, if you knowingly hire, or in some cases unknowingly hire, an unlicensed contractor and something goes wrong, your homeowners insurance may not cover it). Do they have workman’s comp? (If not, and an employee of that contractor is hurt on your property, you can be held liable). Are they an established contractor that you can count on for warranty work? What is their standing on social media? (Do they have good reviews? Do they have “followers”? Do others enthusiastically refer them to friends?) Do they have any complaints that have been filed with the state governing body or local Better Business Bureau? These things are very important. Not having insurance, not properly caring for their clients or not maintaining their tools and equipment can all be reasons why the cost is so low. If the guy shows up to do the install in an ’82 Chevy dually with a horse trailer and three friends (I have seen this), you may want to rethink it. It could also be that they didn’t really look at the job and when the install starts, the real can of worms will get opened.

In my opinion, personal referrals from trusted friends are one of the best validations of a contractor, but don’t stop there. See if they post pictures of their work. Contact someone on their social media page that has used them, preferably one that may have liked their page a year or two prior and see if they are still happy with them. Also, do not discount the little voice in the back of your head, if it is screaming at you “NOOOOO!” there is probably a very good reason for it. I cannot count how many times we have shown up on a job to correct a bad install and the client said “Something told me not to go with this guy, but I did it anyway,” or “ He had a great price, he was way less than all of the others”. Intuition is a valid resource and should be taken into consideration.

Another thing that happens way too often is an established company in a death spiral. Make sure when looking at the reviews that the oldest reviews are fairly similar to the newest. If the older reviews are great then suddenly last year they get worse, they may be on the way out. Also when looking at reviews, don’t just look and see what the overall rating is, look at the actual reviews. A five-star rating from five reviews that are all the contractors friends and relatives doesn’t mean anything, however 60+ reviews that are all four and five stars over a period of several years is pretty promising.

Lastly, once you settle on a contractor, talk to them, ask questions. Ask them what they plan to do when they arrive, if they have any reservations and if they have any suggestions that may make the job more suitable to your needs. Do you have allergies? Ask about indoor air quality products. Do you like to maintain your own equipment? Ask for a short tutorial after the job to familiarize yourself with the unit.

 

You are the one that has to live with the system after it has been completed, the contractor will go home after. Make sure that you do all you can to ensure you are getting the job you want and the quality of work you are looking for. Choosing incorrectly could lead to years of frustration, discomfort and often spending even more money to correct an issue that could have been avoided.

Home sellers often offer a home warranty to the buyer as an extra incentive because they can be easily acquired and provide buyers with added peace of mind when making a large purchase.

 

Home warranties are “supposed” to cover any repairs your home will need over the term of the warranty policy and they are “supposed” to protect buyers from unexpected expenses that may arise such as: a malfunctioning dishwasher, roof leaks, plumbing issues, HVAC issues, etc. This is how it is “supposed” to work, but this is not usually the case.

When I first started my company I (like many other contractors just starting) thought any work was work I wanted, so I took on anything and everything. I signed up with six different home warranty companies. After six months I quit all six the same day. This is why:

 

Home Warranty Companies pay way below industry standard for services; this causes myriad issues. Contractors will catch the warranty calls last, in favor of their higher-paying regular clients. A contractor cannot make a living with what warranty companies pay, so this encourages price gouging on the items the warranty does not cover. The warranty companies strongly encourage the contractors to find reasons to not cover the claim; this allows them to get out of coverage and gives the contractor an opening to sell repairs themselves at inflated rates.

 

As a result of the low pay provided to contractors by the warranty companies and very little vetting, you will generally get one of four types of contractors:

 

1) The New Guy – The brand new contractor that is just starting out and doesn’t yet know what they are getting into (this is the one you want). They haven’t been corrupted yet and want to do good work and make you happy.

 

2) The Veteran – This is the contractor that has been with the home warranty company for many years, knows how to play the game and how to make serious money by billing the warranty company for his work in addition to billing the customer inflated prices for uncovered items. This is double-dipping…win/win for the contractor and the loser is the client.

 

3) The Train Wreck – This is the guy that has absolutely no customer service skills and has been fired from every other company in the area. Without warranty work, he would not be working. Not the guy you want working on anything in your house.

 

4) The Hunter – I call this contractor “the hunter” cause he doesn’t really need to work. He has his own business but really only works to support a few hobbies, and hunting is usually one. He makes enough to supplement his spouse’s income and probably works six months out of the year. He will say he will be at your place Tuesday, but is it this Tuesday or next?

When I worked for the warranty companies, my calls typically went like this:  they would give me a service call, upon arrival I had to diagnose the issue and then call in to the warranty company to get approval on whatever needed to be done. Calling in took between 30 and 40 minutes. I did not get paid for the travel or the time on the phone. If another issue arose during the repair I had to call in again (another 30 to 40 minutes and I was also chastised for not finding this issue the first time, even though the second issue was not apparent until the first repair had been done) and get approval. Anything not approved would not be paid. If the paperwork had any mistakes, I would not get paid. During the call, they would ask a bevy of questions looking for any excuse to deny the claim. If they did have one they felt was valid, they would tell me to collect the copay and leave without giving the client an explanation. They would call the client 10 to 15 minutes later and tell them that the warranty that they have paid for over the past however many years is not going to cover them. The client would then often blame me for the denial. The low pay, extremely poor customer service and fraudulent promises of security is what made me stop working for them. I did not go into business to become a vehicle to scam others.

 

If you already have a Home Warranty in place, here are some things you can do to increase your odds of getting needed HVAC repairs covered:

Before you call for service, make sure the air filters have been changed, make sure the outdoor unit is clear of debris, make sure all of your vents are open and your return has plenty of access to pull in air (no couches or furniture in front of the return). Any of these things can be used as a reason to deny a claim; they will call it  “differed maintenance” or “abuse”.

 

When the contractor arrives, pay attention. Ask questions and take notes. If you get a bad feeling about the contractor (like they might be shady) make them leave and immediately call your warranty company to get a new contractor. Treat them like rental cars, if you don’t like them, get another. Your “little voice” is probably yelling at you for a reason.

Be nice at first. When you call the warranty company, be polite but do not volunteer a lot of information other than “It’s broke”. If you tried to repair it yourself earlier, or if a friend already diagnosed the issue or you tell them or you heard a noise a few weeks ago and didn’t call in, they will use any of these statements to deny the claim.

 

Your claim was denied…now what? The verbiage in the contract is written so they can literally deny anything, for any reason at any time. This can still be overcome if you put in some work. Call them, call them a lot, multiple times per day. Don’t be afraid to be aggressive, all you need to repeat is “I bought a warranty! Fix it!”. Make them cringe every time your name comes up. The phrase “The squeaky wheel gets the grease” could not be more true in this instance. If they won’t fix it, get anyone and everything you can think of involved. Use social media, go to their Facebook page, Twitter page, LinkedIn, everywhere. Contact your realtor who helped you buy the home; they can often contact their home warranty rep. If you have to, don’t be afraid to contact a lawyer, assuming the repair is large enough to justify it. Basically the bigger mess you can create for them, the more likely they will either offer to buy you out or repair your issue.

Home Warranty companies only care about their yearly expenditure. They will spend $2,000 to fix a system that would only cost $3,500 to replace. All they care about is their numbers, not you. Having said all of this, some people actually do get results with their Home Warranty companies. I have had a few clients get their entire systems replaced for only a copay, but they are the minority of cases. In my experience, 95% of the people completely get shafted. The other 5%, because of the work they put in and how they handled the situation or for some just because they “knew people,” they will make out fine.

 

Buying a home warranty is NOT insurance, or even a safety net, as they market it. It is a substandard product that yields lackluster results while giving buyers a false sense of security. You are better off to open a savings account for home emergencies and keep it funded. Then when something does go wrong, not only are you prepared to pay for it, but you are in control, not some nameless cubical warrior whose sole purpose is to limit the services you already paid for.

My best advice is to forego the home warranty. Instead, use that money to hire a quality home inspector, then get an HVAC inspection, a plumbing inspection, an electrical inspection and a roof inspection; and be there for these inspections, ask questions, lots of questions. With all of these professionals at your disposal, you can then make an educated decision about the potential pitfalls of your new purchase. Then proceed with cautious optimism knowing that you made your decision based on the best possible guidance available. Use the knowledge and connections of your realtor, they can be a valuable resource not only for buying your home but for maintaining it afterwards.

 

As with all of my blogs, this information is strictly my opinion based on my 23 years of experience in the HVAC industry. Your experience may vary.

 

 

Contractor referral services may appear to be free for the consumer, but you still pay, just indirectly. Even the pay referral services charge the contractors for your information. Contractor referral services such as Home Advisor (formerly Service Magic) HACOA, Angie’s List, Upwork, Porch, and the hundreds of others out there all charge the contractors for your information; a cost which is then passed on to you. All of the referral services charge the contractor to provide them with your information; many charge the user as well.

 

Referral fees can be passed on to the client several different ways. Some are a percentage of the potential sale, and some services charge per call, depending on the nature of the request. Using one of these services to call a contractor and ask for a quote will cause a contractor to be billed $9, $25, even $75 and up, depending on the service being requested and the referral service.

 

Even if the contractor never comes to your home, they will be charged. Some services will send out information to many contractors and then they will all call you. You may only accept one or two of the requested appointments, but all the contractors are still charged for the lead. Other services will offer a “Premium Service” where the contractor is given leads for a specified area exclusively, but they come at a stiff cost. Other services will just send a text blast, and any contractor that accepts will pay a fee.

 

A few services will vet their contractors; all the contractor has to do is have a few good reviews (which can be done by employees or relatives) then they check for licensing and insurance. Others will claim they “qualify” the contractors; all this means is they make sure the contractor has licensing and insurance. Others do nothing but alert any contractor for which they have contact info. Basically, all this does is give the victim…um…client a false sense of security. These services are selling convenience and claim to sift through the multitude of contractors and provide only the best when really all they do is gather info off the net and act as a lazy match-maker. Having said this, they do have info for some very good contractors, but they will be mixed in with the riff-raff, or the contractors will be paying dearly for the service…or both. You will be paying for the service on one end or the other and you will be taking an unnecessary risk.

 

The best thing to do when looking for a reliable contractor is to use the free resources all around you: social media, the Better Business Bureau, friends, family, other contractors you already have a relationship with, or a real estate agent you trust (they know EVERYONE). People that have already used the type of contractor you are looking for are usually the best resources. I have had many instances where I was doing work at a customer’s home or business and a neighbor stopped by to get my card. Doing the leg work yourself with a few simple clicks of a mouse, a phone call or text can save you money and the frustration that comes with finding your referred contractor is inept.